This page briefly outlines certain requirements, which, if followed, will maximise your enjoyment, prevent problems and protect your investment. Select from the topics on the left menu.
When you take a pool water sample for testing to your NSPI Accredited Specialist, make sure that the container being used does not contaminate the sample.
Use a well-washed glass jar, fill to the top and cover with 2 or 3 layers of plastic wrap before screwing on the lid. Under no circumstances should plastic fruit juice or cordial bottles be used.
Some NSPI Accredited Specialists will provide special sample container designed for this use.
Test kits should perform at least 3 functions, which are:
Test kits may either be the colour drop type, or, the 3 way "dip stick" type.
In remote areas where access to a water testing facility is impractical, other supplementary test kits are available to test calcium hardness, cyanuric acid, and salt.
All Test Kits should be stored in cool conditions, and not exposed to sunlight.
Liquid reagents should be replaced at the beginning of each swimming season.
All work around the Pool structure must be separated by a flexible compression barrier
Adequate drainage in surrounding gardens, landscaping and walkways within 3m of the water's edge must be provided to ensure that the pool structure remains dry.
Australian Standard 1839 contains recommendations regarding sub-soil drainage for fibreglass and other pools, except in areas with highly permeable soils.
Where such drainage systems have been installed and additional site works are planned, it is recommended that contact first be established with the Pool Builder to ensure that the drainage system will not be adversely affected.
Remember that hydrostatic pressure from ground water can affect fibreglass and other pools.
Fibreglass pools may also have a standpipe installed as part of the sub-soil drainage system, which allows for measurement of the height of the underground water table. Check it regularly to ensure it remains free of water.
Swimming Spas and Pools (as a general rule), should not be emptied on a regular basis.
However, if you think your pool or spa needs to be emptied for whatever reason, check with your SPASA Member first, as, emptying it without consultation with the Pool Builder may also void that builder's warranties.
Most problems can be treated without the need to empty a pool, and exposure to the sun and other elements, may lead to additional remedial work being required.
If you live in an area with a high water table you should take particular care, and not simply rely on the hydrostatic relief valve.
It is important to note that whilst the maintenance requirements may lessen during the non-swimming months, some maintenance will always be needed to your pool. Earlier sections in this booklet deal with specific pool maintenance.
Do not allow your pool to deteriorate into a "swamp" during the winter months by thinking that you can save on the small amounts of chemicals and electricity required, as, the damage done to a pool and/or the cost required to restore the pool back to a swimming condition, will seriously outweigh any savings made.
To keep the pool and associated equipment in good working order during winter, the system running time can be reduced (4-6 hours a day).
Addition of a "Winteriser" (Algaecides) may also be considered when pool water temperature reduces to 20 degrees C, or less.
Check the skimmer basket and pump lint pot regularly, and keep clean & clear (as a reduced water flow may cause "cavitation" and damage the pump), and periodically check water balances.
For further and more detailed information, you may wish to purchase: "Private Swimming Pools -Water Quality" (Australian Standard 3633) from the local Standards Australia Office, or "Pool & Spa Owners Guide" from Choice Books (Australian Consumers' Association).